Are balaclavas cultural appropriation? Untangling threads of history, fashion, and controversy

The first time I slipped on a balaclava, it felt like stepping into a secret club—one where the dress code was “survive winter at all costs.” My cheeks thawed, my confidence soared, and yet there was that unmistakable twinge of self-consciousness. These days, though, balaclavas have spun far beyond frostbite prevention. If you’ve scrolled through TikTok or caught wind of heated social media debates, you know this humble accessory now sits at the crossroads of cultural appropriation, fashion trends, and even religious appropriation. So how did we get here, and what does it really mean when someone pulls a balaclava over their head in 2025?

Where do balaclavas come from?

To unravel today’s controversies, let’s start with the basics: origins. The name “balaclava” traces back to eastern European culture, specifically the town of Balaklava in Crimea. Picture British soldiers during the Crimean War of the 1850s, teeth chattering as they braved icy winds. Enter the knitted hood—practical, tight-fitting, and soon known simply as the balaclava.

From those frigid trenches, balaclavas spread quickly across military circles worldwide. Their design was pure function: shield your face from snowdrifts and suspicious glances alike. As skiers, mountaineers, and cyclists adopted them for warmth and protection, nobody whispered about controversy or appropriation. They were just survival gear, passed quietly from one practical crowd to another.

The balaclava beyond the battlefield

Once their tour of duty ended, balaclavas found new fans among athletes, explorers, and emergency responders. For decades, these head coverings were more about necessity than notoriety. But then—like any sturdy utility item ripe for reinvention—fashion designers swooped in. Suddenly, balaclavas weren’t just for blizzards; they became runway stars. Glossy magazines declared them “the look,” and influencers raced to style them for viral moments.

This transformation—from niche tool to statement piece—set the stage for deeper questions. Was the balaclava now simply a cozy trend, or had it become a symbol tangled up in modern fashion and cultural discourse?

Sparking a modern trend—and controversy

Fast-forward to recent winters, and balaclavas are everywhere. From hand-knitted Etsy finds to designer versions sporting eye-watering price tags, their popularity exploded thanks to TikTok debates and Instagram challenges. That’s when talk of double standards and offensiveness started swirling. Was this just a comeback story for a cold-weather classic—or an example of Western fashion borrowing, without acknowledgment, from eastern European or Muslim cultures?

The visual similarity between balaclavas and garments like the hijab raised eyebrows. Some asked: if covering your head is “chic” on a runway but “suspect” or “controversial” elsewhere, what does that say about our attitudes toward identity, faith, and belonging?

How is the balaclava viewed through different cultural lenses?

So, can wearing a balaclava be labeled as cultural appropriation? To answer, let’s zoom out for perspective. These conversations often hinge on how meaning shifts depending on who wears what, and why.

Let’s look at two sides of the story:

• Historical association and cultural meaning: In eastern Europe, balaclavas are mostly utilitarian—handed down, knitted by grandmothers, worn against bitter winters. There’s no ceremonial value, but there’s still pride in their roots. When global brands rebrand balaclavas as edgy or exotic, some locals wonder if appreciation has morphed into appropriation.
• Contrast with religious garments: Now consider the hijab—a head covering rich in spiritual significance for many Muslim women. Its presence on high-fashion catwalks stirs debate about religious appropriation. While balaclavas don’t hold the same sacred weight, the visual parallels prompt us to ask: is society quicker to praise one group while policing another?

Double standards, offensiveness, and representation

Here’s where things get personal. When stylish influencers rock balaclavas, headlines call them “trendsetters.” Yet, when a Muslim woman wears her hijab, she might face bias or exclusion instead of applause. This double standard isn’t lost on anyone paying attention. It exposes uncomfortable truths about which identities are celebrated, and whose traditions are dismissed or misunderstood.

Social media shines a spotlight on these inconsistencies. Debates about representation and fairness aren’t going away—and neither should our willingness to listen and reflect.

Modern fashion, media buzz, and real-world impact

Major brands have jumped on the balaclava bandwagon, launching collections that spark both admiration and backlash. Media outlets dissect the trend, while TikTok users post everything from nostalgic odes to sharp critiques about its origins. All the while, schools and public spaces grapple with whether balaclavas pose security concerns or unfairly target certain groups.

This isn’t just a fashion story—it’s about how meaning shifts depending on context. What feels playful or protective to one person can represent erasure or insensitivity to another. And when a garment jumps from obscure practicality to pop-culture must-have overnight, misunderstandings (and emotions) tend to follow close behind.

• In pop culture: Documentaries and photo essays show activists using balaclavas as protest symbols—emphasizing solidarity, anonymity, or resistance. Here, the balaclava becomes a canvas for new stories, layered onto old ones.
• Grassroots movements: Online creators poke fun at the trend (“secret agent mode: activated!”), yet also acknowledge the speed with which balaclavas shifted from overlooked to overexposed—sometimes without enough thought about their historical baggage.

Where does this leave us?

So, is wearing a balaclava cultural appropriation? The honest answer: it depends. Context, intent, and empathy matter. For some, it’s nostalgia or warmth; for others, it’s a reminder of overlooked histories or ongoing double standards. The key isn’t finding a tidy solution, but being willing to ask tough questions and genuinely hear the answers.

Our best move? Stay curious, stay humble. Before jumping on the next fashion trend, take a moment to learn about its background. Respect those for whom similar garments carry deeper meaning. After all, even the coziest knit cap doesn’t exist in a vacuum—it carries threads of history, identity, and sometimes, controversy.

Questions to spark deeper thinking about balaclavas and appropriation

Ultimately, the balaclava is more than just yarn and stitches—it’s a conversation starter. Next time you pull one on, maybe pause to ask yourself whose story you’re wearing. Sometimes, the warmest thing we can offer is not just a hat, but an open mind.